Clay-mould rice cakes

Walk the side streets of Nha Trang in the late afternoon and you will hear bánh căn before you see it: the hiss of batter hitting hot clay. Squatting beside a charcoal stove, the cook works over a heavy clay tray with rows of small round moulds, pouring in rice batter, cracking in egg, scattering squid or shrimp and covering each with a little clay lid.

A few minutes later, the cakes are turned out onto a plate: golden and crisp underneath, soft and steaming on top.

The toppings

Plain bánh căn is made with rice batter and spring onion. Most people order theirs with toppings. Quail or chicken egg is the classic. Squid, shrimp and sometimes minced pork are popular too. Many stalls offer a mixed plate so you can try several.

The dip

What makes bánh căn in this region special is what you dip it in. A bowl of sweet and sour fish sauce comes with shredded green mango, chilli and garlic. Some places also serve a small bowl of broth with pork meatballs, called xíu mại, for dipping the cakes until they soften a little.

Eat them hot, one or two at a time, with a spoonful of the sauce and a piece of mango.

Where to find it

Bánh căn stalls are everywhere in Nha Trang, often just a stove, a few low tables and a handwritten sign. Many open in the afternoon and stay busy into the evening. Look for one where the trays are full and people are waiting.

The best bánh căn is the one you watch being made, a metre away, on a plastic stool.